odohertyelaine

We’re nearly at the end of our month in Malaysia and today we fly back to KL (from Brunei) for our final 4 days. Our flight is a little delayed so it’s quite late by the time we arrive. Next morning we’re ready to investigate KL. We head out for breakfast and I have one of the last things on my list that I want to try – Murtabak, which is essentially a stuffed pancake. It’s very good.

After getting a few provisions (the obligatory milk for tea, water, etc), we go for a wander to tick some sites off our list. We visit Masjid Jamek, the mosque built at the confluence of the Gombak and Klang rivers, considered to be the birthplace of Kuala Lumpur. In fact Kuala Lumpur translates to Muddy Waters, which is how it got its name… the water is indeed muddy here!

Opposite Merdaka square we see the beautiful Sultan Abdul Samad building which originally housed the offices of the British colonial administration. In later years it housed the superior courts and now it is filled with galleries and cafes.

Cendol, which you find all over Malaysia has been on our list to try since we got here but we haven’t managed to have one… well until now that is. It’s a traditional dessert of shaved ice topped with soft, green, worm-like jelly strands made of rice flour, coconut ice cream, palm sugar and in the case of this one, kidney beans!!! It’s not very sweet considering it’s a desert – worth trying once I reckon!

We continue walking to Pasar Seni or the Cultural Bazaar. It was the original town market, constructed in 1888. There’s a huge amount of craft shops and food stalls and it’s a really buzzing place to walk around.

Another food item on my list to try is beef roti. This is a food staple that was popular on the Silk Road and consists of mince and onion rolled into pastry and deep fried. Now you wouldn’t want to be eating these regularly but it’s very very tasty!!

We go to the National Mosque – it’s giant – capacity to hold 15,000 people. We don’t go in although it does look like it allows visitors. Too many rules for us women!

When I was here in 2018, the construction of the building “Merdeka 118” was underway. It was finished in 2023 and is the tallest building in Southeast Asia and second in the world. I had a view of it from my hotel.

Our final stop is the Islamic Arts Museum. Housed in a beautiful building with some beautifully painted domes on the inside, it also has an inverted dome in the entryway. There’s a brilliant exhibit of the worlds most famous mosques with amazing models of them – in particular the giant Mecca.

A bit worn out from all the walking in the heat, we head back and go for a swim on the top floor of the building. I’m loving it with a view of the Petronas Towers.

This evening we go for dinner in a Chinese restaurant in the huge shopping mall beside us. Shane does the online order at the table and somehow manages to order me an XL dish while his is regular!!! Mine has “exploding pork and beef balls” and they are fantastic … and yes of course I share!!

Next morning we are off to visit the Batu caves. These limestone caves house the most important Hindu temple for Malaysian people.

We climb the 272 colourful steps and enter the main cave which is impressive as caves go, but the temple part is quite basic. We spend a fair while – mainly because I’m looking at the monkeys climbing the cliff walls!

There are monkeys roaming everywhere… as you enter Batu from the train, as you climb the steps and in the cave itself!

While it’s free to visit the main cave, there are smaller caves that you can pay to visit. We chose “Cave Villa” as I’ve seen it online and it looks really colourful – in a crazy tacky way, but I really want to see it!! It doesn’t disappoint on either fronts!

There are peacocks roaming around and some animals on display. We are also treated to a cultural show. A short one thankfully!!!

A few more monkeys terrorized on the way out and then we head home. We go for lunch at a restaurant called 1919 which has been around for as many years and have some Nyona food – salted egg chicken, tofu and a really good fried rice. Roasting again, it’s time for a swim to cool down. This time we head to the 6th floor to a much bigger pool… we even use the very well kitted out gym.

Later in the evening we walk through KLCC park and see the Petronas Towers light up. We go to Traders Sky Bar and have a cocktail with a view.

A light dinner at another mall restaurant, this time a Malay restaurant (that usually means no booze – you need to go to the Chinese restaurants for beer!), which like pretty much all the meals we’ve had, is really tasty.

Saturday morning means Parkrun… yay!!! There’s just one Parkrun in Malaysia and it’s in Putrajaya which is about a 40 minute drive from KL but we are committed! We get up at 6:15am and taxi in the dark, but by the time we arrive, it’s light and we are ready to go. It’s a small number of people but they are all really friendly.

We stay on in Putrajaya for a while to explore. It is a new city, built just over 20 years ago and is the administrative hub of the country. There is building after building of either government offices or residential apartment blocks.

And of course there are a number of mosques including this huge one known as the Iron mosque.

We walk along the river and see the Putrajaya Millenium monument.

Further along, bumping into hardly anybody, we cross this very impressive bridge and get some great views as we cross.

We get a great view back to Putra mosque, or the Pink Mosque – and the large Perdana Putra, which serves as the Prime Minister’s Office complex. We had close up views of these this morning as we ran Parkrun.

Looking down from the bridge on the extremely clean and well maintained roads and rows of residential blocks:

When we get back home, we swim, rest, pack and it’s time for our final meal. We walk past the Petronas one last time (I just can’t help taking a photo every time I see them!!)…

For our final dinner we eat at Bombay Indian restaurant and it’s quite fancy and really delicious and we can have a glass of beer!

Next morning we both fly home. I was supposed to fly through Dubai on Emirates but my flight has been cancelled due to the war that broke out this week. I’ve been lucky enough to get a flight to Istanbul and although when I arrive to the airport I think I’m getting booked through to Dublin, the pleasant tiny Malaysian woman tells me my flight to Dublin is actually tomorrow ….. SO that means although my Malaysia trip is over, I will have a day to spend in Istanbul before I get home!

This is the longest travel we’ve done in just one country and although there are still some parts we’d like to visit, we both feel like we’ve seen Malaysia and we give it 5 stars!

This morning we leave Malacca by bus to KL airport to catch our flight to Brunei. Brunei is its own country, separate to Malaysia, but on the island of Borneo. Back in 2018, I travelled to Borneo to the orangutan sanctuary which was in the Malaysian part. There is also a piece of Borneo that is owned by Indonesia so three countries on one small island. I’m delighted that we are getting the opportunity to visit Brunei, famous for being ruled by a Sultan for 650 years. The flight time is a short one and a half hours and thankfully we arrive on time as we only have two nights here to see the capital city – Bandar Seri Begawan. On the plane there is an announcement to remind us that being caught with drugs in Brunei means the death penalty!

Our hotel provides a pick up from the airport and as we drive toward town (only about 15 minutes) it all looks very clean and well manicured. We drop our bags and head toward the waterfront.

There is no alcohol allowed in Brunei. (Well actually that’s not strictly true, as a visitor, you can bring in a small amount once you declare it and drink it in private). We didn’t go to the trouble so are on the dry! In addition to having no drink for the couple of days, it is currently Ramadan. This means no food during daylight hours for the people of Brunei and we are not sure what to expect and if we will be able to eat in the daytime. Based on the research we’ve done we will not be able to eat publicly, but we will be able to have food in our room. This is going to be interesting!. Once the sun has set we go into a restaurant and have some dinner.

We pass Toking Chinese temple which is beautifully lit up, with a giant parking structure behind! It is the oldest and most significant Chinese temples in Brunei

Next morning after breakfast is delivered to our room, we start the day with a visit to The Museum of Royal Regalia. As the name suggests, it is full of all sorts of regalia belonging to the Sultan (he’s worth around $50bn btw).

We learn about the current Sultan, Hassanal Bolkiah – well that’s his short name – his full name has about 14 parts to it and that’s not just titles, it’s actual names! The museum has lots of photos of him and gifts he received from countries all over the world.

We start a walking tour (from Lonely Planet) around the capital, which is really small so we may have to drag some of this out!!

We see some interesting buildings and soak up the local atmosphere. There’s hardly anyone out and about… seemingly everyone drives everywhere! We see “The Big Wall”, a giant mural welcoming visitors to the country.

We walk to the river to look across at Kampong Ayer, the “floating city” and are enticed to a boat trip. We travel along the Brunei river to a spot where we can see proboscis monkeys. It’s hard to photograph them as they’re high up in the trees and the sun is is barely shining but we do get to see a handful of them swinging through the trees and eating leaves. You can just about spot their protruding bellies and bulbous noses!!

The driver (captain?!) points out the enormous Sultans palace as we pass by. Apparently it cost $3bn to build and has 17 floors!! It is certainly a contender for the Worlds biggest palace.

The young boat driver asks us if we’re married and we both respond “yes”, “Oh good”, he says “Now I can take your photograph”!!! Seriously!!!

We see some lovely birds and enjoy sailing through the mangroves and then head back to the city on water. Kampung Ayer is a cluster of 28 villages, entirely built on stilts. It is the world’s largest water village, with a history spanning over 1,000 years.

We see the Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha Bridge – they do love a long name!

We get off at the museum and learn some of the history of Kampong Ayer. It is considered the birthplace of Brunei civilization and was called the “Venice of the East” when the Western colonists arrived. It was the original capital of Brunei and had a palace for the Sultan.

Off the boat, we duck into the shopping centre to cool down and we notice a lot of police and security around. There are a number of black Mercedes outside and we’re fairly certain somebody important is around. Shane asks one of the security guards and he says the prince is on his way. We also spotted what seems to be a celebrity chef (Chef Ammar) who must be cooking for the prince – a red carpet has been laid out and the security teams are greeting the chef, shaking his hand and getting selfies with him.

After some lunch which we have to take back to our hotel room to eat, we continue our walking tour!

We walk through the lovely Jubilee park, where there is a giant frame for that Insta shot of the mosque!! It’s a bit grey today!

As we approach the mosque, actually this is the side entrance, a young man says hello and asks us where we’re from. We chat to him briefly and he tells us “you know you don’t have to worry about Sharia Law – it’s only for Muslims”. Good to know but we’re not taking any chances… then he says “like if someone was LGBT, only if they’re Muslim would they take action” 😱. We smile and nod politely (ehhhh ok!), while I put on a headscarf and go inside the grounds.

Yet another view of the mosque!

Shane has found a restaurant which serves ambuyat, the national dish of Brunei. It’s a starchy, bland substance similar to tapioca, served hot and you try to wrap it around the chopsticks and dip into various sauces. He ate most of it!!!! This restaurant is fantastic – it’s clearly family run and all Muslim. When we arrive we are nearly too late for the Iftar (evening meal to break the fast) buffet feast…. These people don’t hang around (clearly they’re very hungry), once the sun goes down they are ready to attack… even though we arrived only 30 minutes after sunset, we had the last of the buffet to enjoy!! Everyone was so nice though and said hello to us, asked where we were from and suggested what we should eat!

Next morning we have some time before we go to the airport so we visit the Energy Hub which is essentially a museum to Brunei’s biggest asset – oil!

It has some really interesting information and we even get to do an interactive photo!! We’re the only people there!

Brunei is a strict Muslim country under Sharia Law. This building is the courts… I wouldn’t wanta be in there!

Some other snaps from around the capital…

On the way to the airport we see the Ministry of Religious Affairs- the building is giant and palatial! 🧐

Well Brunei, that’s a wrap… it’s been interesting!

We take a very short flight from Penang to Langkawi. We are about twenty minutes in the air and I’m just about to put my headphones on and an announcement tells us we are getting ready to land!! The Langkawi archipelago is made up of 99 islands and we are staying on the largest – Pulau Langkawi.

We can walk out the front door of our small villa and we are more or less directly on the beach. It is called Pantai Tengah which is a quieter extension of Pentai Cenang, the most popular beach on the island. I think we are in the best spot! Tonight we walk along the beach and see an amazing sunset at Sandy Beach restaurant.

We have a delicious first dinner of sea bass and satay meat in sticks! They have Tiger beer here so we’re happy. The couple of other beach bars we checked out on the way served soft drinks and mocktails only!!

Next morning we check out our surroundings. There are lots and lots of food options and plenty of shops and bars within walking distance.

I’m loving our beautiful beach. The water is warm and the beach is sandy with hardly any stones or shells.

For lunch we eat at Cactus cafe. I have delicious chicken noodles and Shane finally has a beef rendang. I’ve been enjoying my lemon iced tea in Malaysia too. It’s my new drink!!

Some relaxing pool time in the afternoon and then we’re off to find a cocktail. We have a mojito and a chicken starter called Chicken Varuval (dry fried chicken with curry leaves) at Rockafellas. The waiter recommended we have this with naan bread and said it was a signature dish I’d hear…. and it was so good.

For dinner we go to Bobi’s – a popular spot that serves wine… delighted with myself, and it’s fairly decent and the food is fantastic. I have stir fried turmeric chicken, which comes with lots of fresh veg. It’s fab.

Next morning we start our day with a swim… the sea is just gorgeous. It’s perfect for me as there are no big waves and we can go out far but it’s still a comfortable depth. I’m actually properly able to swim here, no floating device needed, which is a huge deal for me and I totally love it!

After our swim we chill in the outdoor lounge space, which we’ve deemed our office before a light lunch at the restaurant next door to our hotel, Tokapi. I have Roti jala which is a crepe net served with dahl and curry.

This afternoon we travel to the peak of Mount Machinchang, which is the mountain we can see from our beach. It is home to SkyCab and the SkyBridge – the main tourist attraction on the island! We take SkyCab, the cable car, up the mountain and enjoy spectacular views.

At the top we get great views of SkyBridge, which is one of the world’s longest free-span curved bridges. Not only are there stunning views of Langkawi and the smaller islands around but you can see all the way to Thailand on a clear day. We have a number of different vantage points to view the bridge from and it certainly is impressive.

A very different view of the same bridge that we are about to walk across.

To get to the bridge we take the 324 steps “nature walk” and along the narrow pathway see monkeys and pass plenty of tourists – this may be the most we’ve encountered since we got here (tourists not monkeys!). Once on the bridge, the views are fantastic and it’s a glorious day… roasting in fact!!!

As part of our combo ticket we have entrance to the 3D museum. We don’t spend long but we do run around and have a bit of fun with some of the 3D illusions!

There’s an Oriental village at the base of the mountain that we walk past … it’s a bit touristy but looks nice!

More importantly as we are leaving the park, waiting for our car, there are Dusky Leaf monkeys just hanging out in the trees.

I can’t believe it and look how close I was able to get. If you read my Penang blog, you’ll know that these were elusive in Penang Hill and I was very disappointed… and here I am in a car park and they show up. They are the cutest looking monkeys ever!!

I’m smiling all the way home after seeing the Dusky Leaf. After a bit of a rest and a freshen up, we have a cocktail at the Hidden bar, which is just down the beach from us. This is a very popular spot for sunset and had a huge queue outside the first night we got here. Luckily tonight we get a table and enjoy a very nice margarita.

We see a really colourful sunset while watching some parasailing action.

For dinner we cross the street to a Chinese restaurant called Mayhian and have salted egg chicken and bitter gourd. The restaurant is busy with large groups eating family style and we can understand why it’s popular. The food is really good.

Next morning we have a 9am pickup for our Mangrove tour. We take a boat and visit Kilim Karst Geoforest Park with a number of stops along the way. Our first stop is to feed some fish and we see some beautiful coloured fish from the boat. We pass bats hanging from trees.

Next we stop at a spot on the river where we see eagles. The guide tells us there are two species of eagle – white belly and reddish brown. They are stunning and there’s so many of them. You can’t really capture it in the photo but it was so cool to see these huge beautiful birds.

We continue on the boat, admiring the mangroves and come to, what they call locally, Monkey river. And of course by now you’ll guess that there must be monkeys around… well you’d be right and there are loads of them. They jump from the mangrove branches onto the boat. They don’t have any interest in stealing your hat or glasses (unlike other monkeys I’ve come across) but they do want your water bottles or food.

Next stop is Bat Cave! We get off the boat and walk through a dark cave. When someone shines a light upward we see hundreds of bats hanging down! Some interesting stalactites and we are out the other side where there are more monkeys to say hello to!!

The time in the boat is really nice. The breeze is cool, we are wearing life jackets (it’s compulsory in Malaysia) and it’s not too bumpy. It feels very safe and it’s really pleasant. We pass the iconic Kilim Geopark sign.

Our last stop before lunch is at the beach. Oh my goodness… this beach is stunning. We swim around for about half an hour in the calm cool (ish) water and it is just heavenly. We both get a “welcome to Thailand” text from our phone providers – we can see Thailand in the distance but we are definitely still in Malaysia!

After a small lunch of fried rice and chicken, we are taken back to the hotel. This trip was well worth the reasonable RM120 (approx €26).

Tonight we have the best meal of our trip so far. We go to Orkid Ria, a fancy seafood restaurant just a few minutes walk from our hotel. We start with a cocktail and then choose our fish from tanks where it’s then weighed and priced. We chose a whole snapper and a couple of Tiger prawns along with green Chinese vegetables, aubergine, fried rice and a few chips thrown in for me!! It is so good and even though it’s our most expensive meal, relative to eating this at home, an absolute bargain.

After that amazing meal, we go to the beach for another lovely sunset.

We swim early next morning so the sea is a little cooler… it gets so warm in the day, it’s hard to believe. For lunch we take a walk to a restaurant called Fat Cupid, which gets really good reviews for their Nyonya dishes. As we walk in it looks very low key but the food is fantastic and actually quite fancy in its presentation. I have Nyonya Chicken Curry Kapitan, apparently the owners favourite comfort dish from Grandma’s recipe book – this nyonya-style curry uses a paste of fresh galangal, corriander, lemongrass and tumeric, served w/ stir-fried veggies, onion omelette & white rice. Shane has a chicken pontay which is a typical Peranakan dish made in a dark, rich soy bean sauce. Both dishes are fantastic.

In the afternoon, we take a grab and travel about twenty minutes to Kuah, the capital of Langkawi. By the way Langkawi is in Kedah state and is often called the “jewel of Kedah”. It is famous for the giant eagle statue that looks out to the sea, so that’s where we head for.

There is a large Geopark all along the water which we walk through.

We spot a couple of hornbills which are very cool looking birds and they swoosh past us, flying really low!

We walk through Legenda park where we see a guy taking photos and we quickly realise there is a gang of Dusky Leaf monkeys in the trees. There’s at least a dozen of them and we stay and watch them for ages. They are throwing fruit from the tree and climbing from one tree to another.

Dragging ourselves away from the monkeys (well that really only applies to me!), we walk further along the coast and arrive at Maha Tower. Proclaimed as an other main attraction on the island, you can buy a ticket to go to the top and look at the views… we don’t!

There’s not a whole lot more to see and it’s really quiet as it’s Ramadan and also it’s Friday which means there are extra prayers so we head back. For dinner we go to a place called Warung DE Cenang – this place always seems to have a queue outside but we’re early enough that we manage to get a table straight away. I have Telur Bungkus which is chicken with vegetables served in an egg omelette. It’s light and very good.

We head back home and get into our swim gear to have a sunset swim, our final swim on the island.

We leave Langkawi on Saturday morning to continue our journey in Malaysia. It has been a beautiful week and I would love to come back one day.

On Saturday we leave Ipoh and make our way to Penang. Penang is a state that includes Penang island. We are taking a bus to Butterworth (on the mainland) and making our way, via ferry to Penang island. We arrive to the bus station an hour early and our bus arrives an hour and a half late😩. It’s a very busy weekend as people are travelling for Chinese New Year. Once on the road, although there’s a fair amount of traffic, the journey is a comfortable two and a half hours. On the way I am fascinated by the miles and miles of Palm trees along the road. With barbed wire surrounding them, they are obviously palm oil plantations. When we get to our Airbnb, we quickly drop our bags, freshen up and we are on the move again. It happens to be Valentines Day and I’ve booked a nice restaurant which is Michelin recommended. It’s called Jawihouse and it’s on Armenian street which is one of the must-see streets in Georgetown, the capital of Penang state. Oh yeah and Georgetown is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Although the food is very tasty, it’s not quite what I had intended – for starters it’s serving a mix of Indian and Middle Eastern food and more importantly there’s no booze!!! Look how pretty this salad is though!

Happily fed (ish!), we explore the beautiful Armenian street and find a bar. There’s a young couple playing live music so I’m delighted. They appear to be playing only love songs and the slow tempo doesn’t change! Quite entertaining!

Next morning we wake up early and get ourselves into a Grab (the Uber equivalent in Asia), which takes us to the bottom of Penang Hill. Here we take the longest funicular in Asia to the top of the hill – it’s very steep and 800 metres high. Once at the top, we head to the Habitat – a rainforest discovery area. There are plenty of macaque monkeys as we enter and leave.

The walk is peaceful and somewhat shaded and we look out for wildlife along the way. I’m really hoping to see a langur monkey which is a black monkey or even better a Dusky Leaf Monkey, which is black but with white around their eyes. We don’t have such luck today, although we do see a flying squirrel. We walk atop “Curtis Crest Tree Top Walk”, which has the highest accessible viewing platform on Penang Island and the views are great. We’ve also beaten the crowds so we’re happy out.

There’s plenty more monkeys to see as we cautiously leave the park and explore some more of the hill before taking the funicular down.

From the bottom of Penang Hill we take the local bus into Georgetown and have a proper explore of this very pretty old town. We have a much needed feed at the Jetty food court.

From here it’s only a few minutes walk to one of the Penang Clan Jetties at Weld Quay. The jetties were built by Chinese immigrants in the 19th century and are stilt homes, now protected as part of the UNESCO site. Seven are still inhabited and in tact and we visit Lee Jetty.

Walking out to the end of the jetty is very peaceful and provides a great view of the stilt houses. That said, the sun is blazing and I’m roasting!!!

We walk back among the streets in Georgetown and happen upon a house where Sun Yat-sen lived when he spent time in Penang. He is widely revered as the “Father of Modern China” as he led the 1911 revolution that ended the Qing dynasty, establishing the Republic of China. We pay a small fee and walk through the modest house which is now a small museum.

There are so many temples that you happen upon when walking around. This one appears when we walk through a small courtyard. It’s so lovely with incense burning and there’s always someone around saying a prayer.

This is one of the most popular temples in Georgetown – Kongsi. It’s a ticketed temple, closed this afternoon as they get ready for the Lunar New Year i.e. Chinese New Year.

We continue our exploring and see Little India – big gate and lots of restaurants! We walk to Fort Cornwallis, built by the British East India company in the 18th century. It is also closed but we walk around it (still roasting!!). We see the clock tower, lots of chickens hanging around and then we head back home for a rest!

For tonight’s dinner we have Korean bbq which is delicious… and cooked by my private chef!!

Next day it’s a regular work day for Shane so I busy myself with a visit to the gym, and some pool time.

In the evening we walk to the Waterfront food court but unfortunately the few stalls that are active have just closed and before we turn around it starts lashing rain… we are stuck here for a while and a man who sees our predicament and disappointment that we cannot get a dinner, gives us a can of beer and a Coca Cola!! Eventually the rain stops (after nearly an hour) and we walk toward home and end up having a really nice meal at a local restaurant, called Bonjour.

Next day we hit another local restaurant for dinner – this time it’s hotpot. After a shaky start (well for me as I really didn’t know what was going on!!), we have a really good meal where we cook dumplings, fish, meat and veg in two different broths – a spicy one and a creamy one. Again cooking mainly done by my private chef!!

There are fireworks going off every night as we approach the Chinese New Year. Also bangers are regularly set off at the temples… is it to ward off evil spirits – who knows! Now anyone who knows me knows I have a real aversion to bangers and fireworks so you can imagine how on edge I am!! 🫣 We do have a great view from the giant window in our apartment though, I just wish I didn’t have to listen to the bang!

I’ve been looking forward to having some roti and finally I get my chance for breakfast next morning. I had tried to have it for lunch but that’s a crazy idea, apparently you have roti for breakfast or dinner but not lunch!

This afternoon I take myself off for a massage and it is fantastic. The place is really fancy – it’s called Yu Zen Wellness and I have sixty minutes of bliss – no getting short changed here for you hour and for approx €23 I have a foot soak and a ginger tea afterward. Delighted with myself! 😁 Tonight we have more delicious food at a hawker centre – we have roast duck, grilled aubergine… so much food to try.

Next day I’ve booked a driver to take me around the island. His name is Mr Teik. He’s a Chinese Malaysian grandfather about to turn 70. His English is excellent and he’s really clued in. We start by visiting Kek Lok Si temple. This is the largest temple in Malaysia and certainly the most famous in Penang. Built over a period from 1890 to 1930, it is a pilgrimage site for many Buddhists from neighbouring countries. It is huge, taking up a whole side of a hill.

I walk around the temple viewing hundreds of Buddha statues and taking in the view from various vantage points around the complex. I take a short lift to the highest point and get close to the towering statue of Guanyin, sometimes called the Goddess of Mercy. This is a beautiful bronze statue surrounded by smaller versions all around, on a platform that provides a great view of the town below. Everywhere is a sea of red lanterns and as Buddhist temples go (and I’ve been to quite a few), this is probably the most spectacular.

From here we drive to the other side of the island which is undeveloped. This is where the land is farmed and they grow the smelly Durian! Mr Teik tells me that it’s addictive (hmm I’ve tried it and it’s so smelly and strong tasting it’s hard to stomach) but you should never have it on the same day you drink alcohol!!!

We continue driving along the coast and see some nice, albeit small, beaches. We are heading to the famous beach – Batu Ferringhi. He drops me at the famous “Golden Sands” hotel and tells me to walk through the lobby (as if I’m a guest!) past the pool and straight onto the beautiful beach. I do exactly what he says and this is what I see….

I can’t believe this is supposed to be golden sands… As beaches go, it’s crap! I had taken off my runners and got ready for a dip but I’m not comfortable to try to get to the water. I can only assume that there was storm damage and there’s also evidence of erosion … there must be another stretch of this beach that is beautiful… alas as this section is right now – this is not a beach for me!

Back in the car, we drive toward Georgetown and visit two temples that are on the same road opposite each other. The first is the Burmese temple.

I love this – the world Guardian and Protector. Apparently this is quite a rare statue. It possesses the quality of the five best combinations – the trunk and tusks of the elephant, four hoofed legs and two agile ears of the horse, the lion-faced toe (chimera) with the deer’s horn, the body and tail of the fish and the two powerful wings of the Roe (Garuda). Therefore it is ideally suited for its role of guarding the world in the form of the globe. I study it but can’t see the top to see if they’ve drawn in Ireland… I hope so!

In the hall of the main Buddha, I walk along the back wall and there are rows of Buddha statues from different Asian countries. I’m fascinated looking at the differences in style and pose from some countries I’ve visited – Thailand, Burma, Sri Lanka, China, Japan, Cambodia, India, Bhutan, Nepal, Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, Laos and others I haven’t – Pakistan, Bangladesh, Afghanistan, Philippines. I do love me a Buddha statue.

Across the road, I enter Wat Chaiyamangalaram, the Thai temple. It has exactly what you would expect of a temple from Thailand – beautiful, dazzling gold and bejewelled naghas guarding the entrance to the main temple.

I’m delighted to see a giant reclining Buddha – it’s not as big as the one in Bangkok but apparently it’s still one of the biggest in the world.

Mr Teik suggests we stop at a Hawker food court so I can grab some lunch as it’s already 1:30 pm. I choose some dry noodles with pieces of fish and eat it in the car on the way back to the apartment. It is roasting and I’m definitely going to be jumping in the pool.

From the pool, I can hear the call to prayer from the local mosque. Depending on if there’s a breeze blowing or like this afternoon where it’s really calm, it gets louder. [Sidebar: I’m currently loving the book I’m reading, “It should have been you“ by Andrea Mara and it’s really gripping. It’s far too hot to sit out in the middle of the day so I have resorted to walking up and down in the pool reading the book!]

For dinner tonight, we go back to the Waterfront food court which is looking very different to when we were here the other night, stuck in the rainstorm. Every thing is open and everywhere is packed….

We manage to find a table in the middle of the action and order mixed seafood with noodles, roast pork, vegetable dumplings, and for dessert we have Rojak. This is chopped fruit with sauce and sesame seeds. There’s some pineapple in there, but it’s not overly sweet as the sauce is not sweet and there’s also cucumber and what seem to be some sort of radish type vegetables in there interesting!

We go for a walk next morning and decide to get some breakfast. There is a huge market with tons and tons of food options, some with really long lines. We choose some dishes that we have been looking forward to trying. They are Chee Chong Fun, Popiah and Otok Otok and they are really tasty.

Our local Nasi Kandar place has been a favourite of Shane’s for a couple of days when I wasn’t having lunch. Today I’m ready to try it and I’m having all the “gravy”… that means about six variations of curry sauces on top of the rice and chicken (or fish in Shane’s case). It’s very tasty!

It’s Friday and Shane has finished work so we are now officially on holidays. We try the Thai bbq which again is a cook your own food on a grill… it feels like a lot of work but it’s a good meal.. eventually!

On Saturday morning we are up at 6am as we’ve booked a cycling tour with a 7am pick up from town. It’s about an hour drive to the other side of the island (where Mr Teik drove me earlier this week) to explore some of the Balik Pulau countryside.

We cycle through a palm tree plantation and our guide TC tells us how good virgin palm oil is… the world seems to get the bad stuff!

We stop in a small fishing town and have a walk around to see the local houses before having tea in the local coffee shop with some locals! We cycle further to the fishing area where the guide tells us that the fisherman fish on average a couple of hours a day!

We stop at Saanen Dairy Goat farm where we have goat ice cream and feed the animals. It has a lot more animals than the goats – we see an ostrich, an emu, porcupines and other smaller animals I’m not even sure what they were!

We enjoy the cycle back to our starting point and then it’s just under an hour drive back to Georgetown.

It’s time for some lunch and we both try Hokkien Prawn Mee. I have mine a little less spicy and it’s really good.

Happily fed (again!), we set off to see more sites of Georgetown. We see the Georgetown mansion which is a beautiful green building and the Fatt Tze blue mansion.

We walk down Love Lane, see plenty of small temples and mosques and admire lots of the old buildings.

We walk through a small park toward the water and see City Hall and Town Hall.

Looking out to the water, along the Esplanade, we see the Cenotaph – a war memorial dedicated to the Penang soldiers who lost their lives in various conflicts including WWI, WWII and the Indonesia-Malaysia Confrontation (1963–1966).

We walk along the Esplanade and see men fishing before turning inland again to find the two main churches in town. The first is the Church of the Assumption (Catholic). A simple white building, the inside of which is one of the plainest churches I’ve visited abroad. Secondly, St George’s (Anglican) – another fairly plain white church.

It is crazy hot and we’ve seen pretty much everything that was on our list, so we jump on a bus and head home. We saw lots of preparation for what looks like a giant street party in town for the 5th night of Chinese New Year celebrations but we opt to stay local and go to a Korean restaurant. We have fish pancake, fried chicken and “volcanic” rice which is mixed with cheese and served with seaweed on top!!

Next morning we visit Penang National Park. It sits on the north-west tip of the island and is just under an hour drive away. Luckily Grabs are cheap! There’s an RM50 (approx €12) entry fee for me but his lordship gets in free – certainly one perk of aging!! We hike for about an hour and a half through beautiful trees and enjoy amazing jungle sounds. We cross a bridge over the Meromictic Lake which is a rare phenomenon that consists of distinct, non-mixing layers of saltwater and freshwater. There are only a handful in the world.

We arrive to turtle beach, which is stunning and we are the only people there. It’s not safe to swim as there are dangerous jelly fish. From here we take a boat to another beach.

The boat leaves us at monkey beach which is a little busier but safe to swim in. On land you’ve got to watch out for thieving monkeys though!!

After dipping our feet and walking the length of the short beach, we take another boat back to the park entrance. We walk into the fishing village of Teluk Bahang and have a delicious meal of squid, broccoli bean curd and claypot fish stew. A bus arrives as we are just finished and so we head home.

Tonight we are going to Tek Lok Si temple. This is the giant temple I visited earlier in the week and I’m excited to go back and see it at night. The temple is a focal point for the Chinese community in Penang, especially for Chinese New Year. The New Year celebrations are particularly impressive, with thousands of lights and lanterns turning the scenery into a sea of light.

What a way to end our trip – Spectacular!

I fly to Kuala Lumpur to meet Shane and we have an overnight before our train journey to Ipoh. Luckily we are staying at a hotel that we can access without going outside of the train station as there’s heavy rain, with thunder and lightning. We get off to a great start with a very tasty meal (I’m confident the food will not disappoint here). I have salted egg with chicken rice and Shane has a laksa – tasty with just a nice bang of heat. Next morning we have breakfast included and are spoiled for choice at a huge Asian buffet. Satiated and happy that the sun is shining, we find our train and enjoy the two hour journey to Ipoh.

Ipoh is world renowned as a top food destination – no surprise that’s our reason for coming! There are three main communities here – Chinese (mostly Cantonese), Malay and Indian. We intend to eat across all three cuisines and enjoy the many specialties of this region.

We are staying in a really nice apartment surrounded by lots of eating establishments so this is going to work out well. We settle in and then take a walk around to get our bearings. We have a late lunch/early dinner and for our first meal we have the traditional “chicken and rice” which is poached chicken served with bean sprouts and rice. It’s not at all spicy but of course it’s served with chilli sauce on the side.

We find our local shop and get some basic provisions (milk for tea obviously!) and have an easy evening at home.

Next morning we start with a local breakfast of noodles and soup! I’m taking it very easy mind you… small amounts until I establish the belly can handle it!!

Shane is working so I have a lazy morning before we head out for lunch… more noodles but totally different to this mornings and served with a raw egg on top!

After lunch while Shane is working, I take a walk to the local shopping mall (it’s gigantic) and have a pedicure. Once Shane finishes work, we take a walk around old Ipoh and see lots of cute murals and interesting buildings.

It doesn’t take long to see all the main sites… the Birch Memorial Clock Tower, installed in 1909, features four panels with historical figures from various fields, including history, arts, sciences, and religion, to symbolize the “growth of civilization”. We take a close up look and guess quite a few of them (does that make us nerds – happy to take it!).

We see the very nice Ipoh Town Hall, completed in 1916.

The rest of our walk is soaking up the general atmosphere of the laneways and streets which are decorated for Chinese New Year. We stumble across an interesting looking bar called Kiki Lalat and I have a very refreshing soju mojito. Tonight’s dinner is at a very nice Chinese restaurant and we have pork belly, tofu with mince, aubergine and green beans, served with beautiful (almost purple coloured) rice.

Next morning I’m up early as I’m taking a tour to the Cameron Highlands which are a couple of hours drive away. I’m on a private tour (as I couldn’t find a group one to join) so it’s just me and the driver, Jim in a comfy car heading to the Cameron Valley Tea plantation.

I appear to be the first tourist today and I walk around enjoying the perfectly manicured views with no crowds to obscure my view.

I try the tea in the shop after my walk along with a a scone (I wasn’t expecting that) and then it’s time to go to the next stop on the tour which is the Orchid and Rose garden. When I get dropped off, I don’t have high hopes as this place looks like a small garden but as I continue walking through to the back, it opens up and the flowers are really impressive. There are also some animals to be amused by along the way – rabbits, guinea pigs, chickens, turkeys, goats, sheep… they have it all here at O&R, as they call it.

Next on the itinerary is a visit to a strawberry farm. This region is famous for strawberries so I have to taste them so I can compare to our trusted Wexford strawberries back home. The visit to the farm is somewhat underwhelming. I walk around a small area where some strawberries are growing, then check out the shop and that’s it!! I could have paid extra to pick strawberries and take them back but I gave that a pass (this tour has cost me €96 already!). Continuing onwards, we stop at Cactus Point – now this sounded good to me but it was pretty much a garden centre with lots of cacti. In fairness I was very impressed to see such an array of different cactuses / cacti – apparently you can say either but it does feel like a filler to make the tour!

Next stop is the local market – there are roadside markets all over the highlands so we stop at one and taste some white sweetcorn which can be eaten raw and is really delicious. I also try a white strawberry which I’ve never tasted. I buy some of both to bring home for himself.

The last stop on the tour is after lunch (I’m not hungry so it’s a non event for me but Jim has some tasty looking Indian food) and is a waterfall called Lubuk Timah. It’s a short walk past some hot springs to get there and as you may gather from the perfect line at the top, it is man made!!

I haven’t brought a change of clothes but I take off my shoes and socks and walk in up to my calves. The water is super clear and the temperature is delightfully cool.

We have another great dinner tonight, close to our apartment. We have grouper, cuttlefish and some rice with pork and vegetables. The view from our floor looks nice as the sun goes down.

Next morning we go for a walk along the river. We see a couple of monkeys

And walk home via our local mosque.

We have the delicious corn and an array of fruit for breakfast including red and white strawberries, mandarin, tiny bananas and pomelo. A slow morning (well for me) with some book time on the balcony and a quick workout (we have equipment at our apartment) and it’s time for lunch.

Today we try Nasi Kandar, or as the locals call it, Nasi Ganja (because it’s so addictive!). Unbeknownst to ourselves we are at the most popular place in town – we had an idea by the crowds but only found out later it’s THE place to try this dish. So what is it…. Well it’s fluffy white rice, a spicy ayam masak merah, half a salted egg, fresh cucumber slices, a generous splash of mixed curries, and – most importantly – a spoonful of spicy sambal kelapa. Add to this a choice of meat – I went for chicken which is the most popular, and there you have it. Most people eat it with their hands (crazy messy) but we were given a fork and spoon… spot the foreigners!!! I’m happy to report it was delicious!!

I have a relaxing afternoon reading my book and in no time at all it’s time for our next meal!! We go to another Chinese restaurant which is very busy due to Chinese New Year, which is in a couple of days. All the tables are full with families eating multiple dishes served in very large dishes on a lazy susans. We have a stingray and vegetable curry and a delicious homemade tofu topped with shrimp and mince.

Next morning I decide to text Jim and have him take me on a tour of some of the sites that are beyond walking distance. Ipoh is surrounded by mountains and limestone caves and cave temples are common. We start with a visit to the oldest one – Sam Poh Tong.

There are lots of Buddha statues and then the cave opens out to a back area where there is this beautiful Chinese temple.

At Jim’s suggestion I’ve bought some tomatoes to feed the turtles that are behind a grid opposite the temple! It’s great fun and I take some video to send to Anya (my niece) at home… she loves this stuff.

We drive about 250 metres to our next temple – NAM THEAN TONG. Technically I think it’s part of the same complex but it’s quite different. There are some very colourful statues outside and lots of nooks and crannies inside full of … you guessed it, Buddha statues!

The third temple in a row, which I can walk to, is LING SEN TONG. Equally colourful, the garden in front is decorated with colourful statues of characters from Chinese mythology such as the Monkey King from the classic tale Journey to the West.

Next we go to Mirror Lake. The locals call it Tasik Cermin 2 and I take a small boat through a cave to the “hidden world”.

You definitely need the helmet they’ve provided as the tunnel gets very low and we have to bend over to avoid banging our heads. When we enter out of the tunnel to the lake it is beautiful.

It’s a tiny boat with a Malay/Chinese couple and two lads – one from Brazil and one from Switzerland.

Next on the tour is Kellies Castle. an unfinished, ruined mansion, built by a Scotsman, Kellie-Smith, in the early 1900’s. Between the onset of WWI and the Spanish flu, it never got finished and when he died at the age of 56, his family moved back to Scotland and it was left in ruin.

It’s really interesting to walk though what would have been an extravagant house, with winding stairs to secret rooms and a tower which was planned to have the first lift in Malaysia.

Just as I reach the top of the castle to admire the views from the highest point there’s some giant rain drops starting to fall. I get back to the car before it buckets down. We get in the car and head north, hoping we’ll get to Perak Cave temple before it closes at 4:30pm. We make it and I’m so glad we did. It’s another temple built into a limestone cave and it’s very impressive. It has a huge Buddha statue (the biggest in Ipoh I’m told!)

What sets this one apart are the paintings on the walls… there are a lot of them and they are very impressive

I really do love these cave temples .. it’s so impressive to see them from the road. What a great idea to carve out a temple in the limestone mountains – genius!

Tonight’s dinner is at SG Frog Porridge. I’m excited to eat here as it got great reviews online and I don’t remember ever having frog before. I’m intrigued by the porridge, which I’ve managed to avoid on all my trips to Asia but tonight’s the night.

It’s not like our oat porridge at home, it’s essentially watery/creamy rice and is the base for the meal, just like a bowl of regular rice would be. At this place it’s got ginger in it and it’s really tasty in and of itself. Along with the porridge, we order frog in chilli sauce, lamb in ginger sauce, bok Choi and Tiger beer. I didn’t have any lunch today so I’m particularly hungry and this is my favourite meal so far. Well it’s a close tie with yesterday’s Nasi ganga!!

Next morning we find more of the river walk… there’s an area set up for Chinese New Years celebrations and the reflection in the water is stunning this morning.

We walk a little more around the old town and see the famous Concubine Lane, which is a famous narrow street however there are much nicer ones all around.

We stop for some brekkie and the owner sits down to chat to us – he is Chef Uni and he’s very excited when Shane tells him he’s from Sydney as he has family living there.

For lunch today we have curry bun. We’ve seen so many pictures of this, close by our apartment. It’s essential curry cooked inside a loaf of bread. It looks more impressive than it actually is but still decent enough. The bread is a bit sweet for my taste but we’re glad we tried it.

It’s Friday so this evening once work is all finished, we walk into the old town and have a beverage at Tin Corner 39. They have Guinness and Kilkenny on tap so it’s essentially an Irish bar!! We end up staying for a few and having our final dinner here as it lashes rain. Luckily it’s stopped by the time we are ready to walk home.

Tomorrow we are traveling north to Penang. We have really enjoyed our week in Ipoh, definitely a good stop if you’re in Malaysia.

We leave Chiang Mai and take a two hour flight to Krabbi island where we are picked up in a very nice “party van”!

From the airport we drive about an hour south and take a ferry to Koh Lanta island.

It’s about another half hour from the north tip of Koh Lanta, where we disembark the ferry, south to our Airbnb which is close to “Long” Beach. Once settled at the beautiful house we walk to a restaurant on the beach.

A cocktail before a delicious meal

We decide to try out the local transport to take us up the road… it’s very exciting!!!

It’s a nice slow start to the day next morning and I decide to stay by the pool and read my book with a cup of tea while the gang go for provisions and hopefully book us a day trip. They do exactly that, so I can continue my lazy day until it’s time to head to the beach for sunset and dinner.

Further down the beach we enjoy more delicious Thai food, cooked by what seems to be a Muslim family. They are so nice to us and when I see they have wine, I order a glass…. It’s a giant pour … ehhh I won’t be ordering another!!

Next morning we relax and have some pool time. It’s really hot so the pool is very inviting.

In the afternoon we book a local truck to take us to Old Lanta.

We follow a Lonely Planet walking tour to make sure we don’t miss any of the sites… it’s small though, so I don’t think we’re going to miss anything!

There’s a Main Street where we check out some shops and bars and halfway down we see some sort of ritual going on at the Chinese temple. It’s quite a spectacle that builds and builds with drums and chanting getting louder and louder.

We eat dinner at a really nice restaurant called Pinto and see a beautiful full moon…

We found out earlier that it’s a good day to visit the town as tonight is “Loy Krathong” – the festival of lights. This festival is celebrated on the 12th lunar months full moon, which happens to be tonight. Everyone in town is making, or in our case buying up these “krathongs” which are floating vessels or lamps. You light the candle in the middle and then set it afloat on the river.

I start off great and I’m delighted with my krathong but I give it a bit too firm a push and it falls over 🥲. A lovely young boy walks into the water and turns it over for me so it floats down the river.

Town is full of buzz with loads of stalls with interesting food and goods for sale. Once we’ve explored and got our blessings at the festival, we find our driver and head back to the house.

Next day we are up early and ready for our day trip. The trip we’ve chosen is the “4 islands” day trip and it promises an unforgettable trip to 4 famous islands, Koh Chuek, Koh Mook (Emerald Cave), Koh Ngai and Koh Maa. They apparently have the best snorkeling sites with crystal clear water and many varieties of underwater coral reef and sea creatures. Koh Mook will be the highlight of the trip, the only way in to this amazing location is to swim 85m. through an underwater tunnel that opens to a secret beach. Hmmmmmm it doesn’t quite turn out that way…..

We take off on a very nice long boat hoping the weather will improve.

The weather isn’t improving and the water is very choppy. First stop is for some snorkeling but it’s too rough for most of us. Shane manages to get in and see some fish but I’m definitely staying on board.

Back on board we head toward the next island. The small islands and rock formations on view from the water are very picturesque and if it wasn’t so dull it would be stunning.

The captain tells us it’s too dangerous to go to the secret beach so we head for Koh Ngai, park up the boat and spend the rest of the time here. No Emerald cave for us today unfortunately.

Although it’s not quite stacking up to what the brochure promised, it is a beautiful beach on this little island.

We spend some time relaxing in the very comfortable water and enjoying the beach. We have lunch, which consists of two different types of curry with a desert of fresh fruit. Thankfully we are under cover as it starts to rain fairly heavy. There’s not much we can do, so we decide to head back early.

Back on the boat we settle in for what turns out to be a very scary journey home. I’m not even going to attempt to describe the hour plus journey in the rough water as I’m getting palpitations even thinking about it, but suffice to say at one point I was crying behind my sunglasses and clutching my life jacket in fear. In fairness we were all very happy to get off that boat!

We head back home (appreciating being alive!), and later in the evening walk to a lovely restaurant, the Yellow Bistro, that’s really close to our house. We have another lovely meal as we’ve come to expect in Thailand.

We were told when we arrived at our house to watch out for the monkeys and be careful we don’t leave anything outside in case they steal it… well these monkeys are nowhere to be seen and we are a little disappointed. Next morning we finally see a monkey outside.

It’s our last day and we head to the beautiful Phra Ae beach. We walk a long way and enjoy the sunshine and the soft sand.

We have lunch at Funky Fish which again has plenty of good Thai options and fish in particular.

Next door is a massage place – you don’t go too far (even on the beach) without coming across a massage option. Rav and I decide to leave the gang having a drink while we get pummelled and stretched out next door… it’s bliss!

We jump in a taxi and ask the driver to drop us off at “The Big C” minimart. We grab some chips and booze and when we get to the counter to pay, the lady points to a sign reminding us we are not allowed to buy alcohol between the hours of 2 and 5pm! So embarrassing…. We have to put back the booze that we carefully chose!!

Time for a photo op in our elephant pants before heading back to the beach for our final sunset and meal.

We celebrate the end of our holiday admiring the sunset with a cocktail.

Next morning we are up early to journey back to Bangkok for our flight to Sydney. With a few hours to fill in, we go into town – we’ve come full circle and see the capital is still in mourning for the Queen Mother. The billboards, showing photos of her throughout her life, are really lovely.

Bye bye Thailand, you’ve been delightful!

We set off from the Tree House and drive a couple of hours to Chiang Mai. The house we are staying at is an old wooden house centrally located near the river and the Phae gate. We get settled in our rooms and then set off to explore our local area. Our closest wat (that’s a temple) is “Wat Chetawan” which appears to double as a car park!

We are very close to a large market which we walk through for a cursory view.

The plan this evening was to do a local food tour but the guide contacted us and suggested he take us to Lamphun, a town about forty minutes away and currently having a lantern festival. We are happy to go with that and are collected in a van by Eddie and Mr M. (yep that’s the name we’re given!) and off we go….

The food tour turns into more of a history tour as Eddie plays a YouTube video for us on the drive, explaining the history of Lamphun. Formerly called Haripunchai, it was under Burmese rule for a number of centuries. We are convinced (coerced is definitely too strong a word) to visit the local museum, where we hear more of what we just watched in the video…. And yet we still can’t remember the details!!!

We cross the street to WatPhraThat Hariphunchai which is a highly sacred and historically significant Buddhist temple in Lamphun. The lantern festival also known as the Hundred Thousand Lanterns Festival, is in full swing and after writing a wish, we are ready to hang our lanterns.

The festival features thousands of colorful, handmade lanterns that are hung to light up the temple grounds, with visitors able to purchase and hang their own lanterns with personal messages and wishes for good fortune. It’s like walking through a sea of lanterns!

Eddie and Mr.M take a tonne of photos of us at every given opportunity and they love to join in too!!

Eventually it’s time to move on and start the actual food tour. We walk along the main road outside the temple which is littered in food stalls and Eddie asks us what we’d like to try. We have a mixture of savoury, including the local Lanta sausage; and sweet, including an ice cream sandwich which is literally ice cream between 2 slices of white sliced bread! Then we jump in the car and head to a stall where a lady has pad Thai waiting for us. All plated up and waiting for our arrival! (🧐). He tells us it’s the best in town as she cooks it with passion! There are some other dishes to try here too but he doesn’t give us a whole lot of info.

Next we are taken to a food market for some fried pork which is my absolute favourite. As food tours go, it wouldn’t rate so highly but we’ve had lots to eat and the lantern festival was a huge bonus. We happily head home and rest up for a day of exploring tomorrow.

Next day we follow a walking tour from the Lonely Planet and Shane is our designated guide (no surprise there!!). We see part of the old walls which were built around the same time as the city’s founding in 1296 to protect the Lanna Kingdom from invasions.

Other than the walls and of course all the interesting shops and food establishments, it’s really all about the “wats” (temples) here in Chiang Mai. So essentially we embark on a walking tour of Buddhist wats! We start with Lok Moli temple. It’s not known when this temple was built but it is first mentioned in records in 1367!

The main temple has a beautiful wooden finish which is quite unusual (as you’ll see the more wats I post!)

There are many other shrines around the grounds and the chedi, or stupa (built in the 1500’s) stands in the background.

Directly across the road is Wat “Ra jamoniean T.Sripoom A.Muang” – quite a mouthful! It has a cool large Buddha outside.

Next we visit Wat Chiang Mai which was the first temple in Chiang Mai built by King Mangrai. The most important temple building is the pavilion-style stupa with a round-shaped dome. It was built on a square plinth, decorated with half-body stucco elephants and dates to 400-500 years ago.

Inside the temple there’s a monk praying and receiving gifts.

Onwards to the Three Kings monument. This monument built in 1983, is of the three kings considered the founding fathers of Chiang Mai. They founded the city in 1296 and it later became the capital of the Lanna Kingdom.

One more wat before lunch – this one, called Wat Sadeu Mueang is believed to contain the relics of King Mangrai (he was one of the three kings in the statue) but they are in the stupa as opposed to on show like the catholics do it!! Beautifully painted on the outside with impressive nagas flanking the entrance (they’re the dragons) and decorated with lots of gold Buddhas on the inside, as you’d imagine!

It’s time for lunch and we go to a restaurant that is famous for boiled chicken and rice. I actually try the pork which is super tasty.

With a new burst of energy after lunch (the heat and humidity is nearly killing me mind you!), we purchase a ticket to visit the large complex of Wat Chedi Luang. This has a number of buildings including Chiang Mai’s city pillar. This sacred pillar was placed here by the king when the city was founded and is considered a spiritual landmark, representing the city’s protection from misfortune and disaster, however women are not allowed to enter – why? I’ll let you read the sign for yourself.

Ah well there’s lots more to see around here… there’s a beautiful temple….

… and there are lots of monks around

…. There’s a beautiful old stupa (in the Lannna style), many many Buddha statues including a reclining Buddha…

… and the opportunity to lay some gold leaf.

We head home via the Tha Phae Gate which is the main gathering place in the city and it is also very popular with pigeons!!!

Back at the house we enjoy the beautiful terrace, even when there’s a downpour of rain that we have to avoid. No one is in the mood to go out for dinner – it’s seriously lashing rain so we decide to order a “grab” delivery. Last night we had a conversation with the tour guide about KFC and he told told us that they do a green curry which is really good. We’re intrigued so give it a go… and it’s actually really good!

Next day starts with a heavy downpour of rain so it’s a slow morning before we head off to finish the walking tour of wats. We stop at Wat Tung Yu. I particularly like the nagas on this one – they’re not just dragons, the’re mythical serpent-like beings that act as guardians to protect sacred spaces from evil spirits

The inside of most wats have paintings all around the walls – usually detailing stories of the Buddha. These ones are particularly nice.

Next we head to Wat Phra Singh, the most revered temple in Chiang Mai. The buildings are lavish and there’s a lot to see in this complex.

There are many beautiful gold Buddha statues but I particularly like the life like monk statues they have. The guy below in red is real!!!

Next stop is WAT MUEN NGEN KONG, which has a huge reclining Buddha. I do love a reclining Buddha!

One more before lunch! It’s called Wat Phuak Hong, which looks like it needs a little TLC but is really quaint, with no one around.

It has a really old Lana stupa….

….. And a monk who’s having a nap

We stop for lunch at a Khao Soi restaurant and it’s really good. They also have Chiang Mai donuts so that’s a must!

In the afternoon we visit the Silver temple. Everything is silver – the temples, the nagas, the Buddhas. It’s very different to what we’ve seen today.

One of the temples is another men only temple so of course the lads check it out so we have to wait outside… the cheek of these monks – sure they wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for menstruating women!

Our final temple to visit today is Wat Jedyod Royal Temple or Wat Chet Yot – I know, the names are hard to handle! To get here we have to jump in a Grab as it’s a little outside of town. It is one of the oldest temples in Chiang Ma and a place of pilgrimage for those born in the year of the Snake.

It’s royal because it was commissioned by a king. There are a number of buildings to see on the grounds and it’s nice to see the young monks keeping it clean.

Time to go…

Back at the house we enjoy a beverage on the terrace and have a delicious Thai meal.

Next morning we head to Waroros market for a little souvenir shopping and hopefully to find just the right elephant pants! We see a very cute photo pose at the Phae Gate

After some lunch we take a red songthaew, which is an open-air truck that operates like a taxi. We have seen them all over Chang Mai and it’s time we had a go!

Our destination is Doi Suthep, a mountain just west of the city. With an elevation of 1,676 metres, it’s quite a fun journey alongside all the motorbikes to the top! The taxi drops us to a spot where we can take a funicular to the very top and you’ll never guess what’s up there… yep, it’s another wat!!! There’s also a nice view of the city below.

The temple at the top – Wat Prathat reminds me of Burma – loads of gold and many smaller temples around the large central temple full of what you’d expect – Buddha statues.

Rav and I see a monk giving blessings and decide to get ourselves in there and get one. We’ve no clue what the monk says but he motions for us to sit down and proceeds to drench us with water… it was hard not to giggle!

Happily blessed, we take the stairs and get to the songthaew for the drive back to the city.

It rains and there’s traffic but it’s also nice to see the city at night.

It’s late when we get back and it’s been raining so we take a very short walk to our local pad Thai restaurant which offers a limited but very tasty and very reasonably priced menu. I opt for the Padthai wrapped with egg – it’s excellent.

We finish our Chang Mai part of the trip with drinks on the terrace and next morning are picked up for the next and last leg of our journey.

The “Chang Dao jungle” refers to the lush, mountainous rainforest surrounding Chang Dao, a serene town in Northern Thailand known for its dramatic peaks, extensive cave systems, and exceptional biodiversity. There are a number of “treehouses” offering accommodation with stunning views out over the forest. Ours is the Treehouse Hideaway.

We check into our rooms which are, as you’d imagine in a treehouse – basic but grand and then it’s time for some lunch. We are dished up a plate of fried rice with chicken which ordinarily I would love but alas I got hit with “Delhi belly” this morning and I’m very much under the weather. I slept all the way here (which was about a 4 hour drive) and don’t have a lot of energy but I don’t want to miss the hike to the waterfall. We set off with our guide Mr. Moo and his trusted sidekick Uncle Wan (who’s in his 80’s)!

Uncle has brought along a tiny turtle to release back into the wilds and he points out a tarantula in its nest and a huge beetle! And I barely screamed!!!

There’s a lot of walking through rivers, although it’s more like being dragged through. Setting out on this hike we expected a couple but in fact I counted about 25 crossings….

Eventually we reach the waterfall . We packed our swimming gear but I’m not sure where you’d actually swim here!

Smiling before the arduous journey home!

Back at the Treehouse I need a snooze and a shower and then it’s time for dinner. It’s a very small bit for me until I feel better.

Next morning we have breakfast and give an offering to the local temple.

I’m nearly crying with the laughter when I do a google translate on the sign and it says this: 🤣🤣

We meet Mr Moo at 9am and he takes us by car (a 7-seater just about!!) to see the beautiful Chiang Dao temple up in the hills.

There are over 500 steps to climb with some Buddha teachings along the way and when we reach the top we’re treated to this temple with plenty of gold Buddhas.

After the temple, it’s onward to the Chiang Dao cave which is also somewhat of a temple. It’s a limestone cave estimated to be 250–300 million years old. It has the usual stalagmites and stalactites that you’d expect, some resembling elephants and faces etc etc.

A lot of the statues within the cave are of Burmese origin. These definitely look like the Burmese statues I’ve seen.

Sidebar: The Buddhist calendar is typically 543 years ahead of the Common Era calendar in countries like Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos. Therefore, to find the equivalent Common Era year for 2178 BE, you subtract 543: 2178-543 = 1635.

For lunch, Moo takes us to a restaurant for some pad Thai. Again it’s a small taste for me but it’s very good. Once lunch is finished we head for the hot springs and languish for an hour in some smelly water!!

We drive back up the mountain to the Treehouse and three of us have massages. Rav and I are beside each other and have two old ladies who giggle to each other and we’re convinced it’s about how tight and inflexible we are. They are gorgeous women and so sweet and friendly and the massage is amazing.

It’s a buffet dinner on the deck and another early night (I’m really hoping I bounce back tomorrow). Next morning we have brekkie and say goodbye to Mr Moo.

Time to head to Chang Mai … bye bye Treehouse, it’s been quite the experience.

It’s time for our group holiday and this time we’ve picked Thailand. I’ve been to Bangkok a few times but haven’t explored elsewhere in Thailand so I’m very excited for this trip… also I’m en route to Sydney so that’s always something to look forward to!

I arrive in the afternoon after flying on Emirates through Dubai and I’ve a few hours to hang around until the gang get here. They arrive on time so we find our pick-up and we’re off…

We’re staying for one night at Riva Surya hotel which is on the river and it’s really nice. The rooms are gorgeous. We sit outside and have a cocktail and a small bite to eat before calling it a night.

There was talk of a swim early next morning so off I go… but no one turns up! Still the swim was gorgeous and after breakfast we set off to explore.

We walk though the university and see a giant lizard rambling around outside one of the buildings – that was unexpected!

The Wilsons haven’t been here before and our intention is to visit the palace but we’ve just found out that the King’s mother died on Friday and the palace is closed. Bad luck… we still walk down to take in the surrounding area.

We walk to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, and get a great view of it from across the river. It’s a bit cloudy so not as colourful as it generally appears but it is beautiful to see.

From here we take the ferry along the river to our hotel. It’s a busy river with lots of long boats ferrying people around and tugboats dragging huge loads of cargo.

Back at the hotel after a swim to cool down, we have foot massages, which are heavenly (well some of us think so!). Then it’s time to organise ourselves and head to the airport for the hour flight to Chang Rai.

We have an easy pick up at the small Chang Rai airport and get dropped at our Airbnb which is a lovely 4-bedroom house. We chose our rooms (all of which are lovely) and head out to the night market for some food.

There are lots of food stalls and a lot of choice. Shane finds Khao Soi, the signature dish of Northern Thailand which consists of egg noodles with chicken in a creamy coconut soup, topped with crispy noodles, with shallots, lime, and pickles on the side. It’s really good. We also have pad Thai, noodles with pork, roti and morning glory (which is a green veg). Washed down with a Singha beer, we have a look around the market.

We go to a craft beer bar (surprise surprise!) and there’s some live music which we are loving. Hard to tell if the singer is singing in English or Thai but we think he’s doing his own tracks. Our favourite is clearly the break out hit from his album – “Shine time”!!

Next day after finding some coffee (a lemon green iced tea for me!), we take a taxi to see the famous White Temple. It’s famous but it’s a total tourist trap – feels like a Disney Temple!

One of the highlights of the White temple complex are the golden toilets!! Yep the photo below is of the toilet block!!

Built in 1997, the temple sparkles and has intricate carvings at every turn. On the inside it’s full of colour, just like a regular Buddhist temple (no photos allowed inside). Obligatory photos taken, it’s time to move on.

Our grab driver waits for us and is keen to take us to the Long Neck Karen village, where the ladies where the gold to elongate their necks…. We decide not to do that! Apparently it was dying out until they realised they could make money from tourists and it’s become a thing again… 🥲. So instead of that we head for Rong Suea Ten Temple aka the Blue temple.

This is another contemporary Buddhist temple which commenced building in 2005. It’s beautiful and very interesting to walk around the complex but again doesn’t have an authentic feel about it. We’re encouraged to get a photo with the Buddha… unusual but happy to oblige.

We get dropped back to town and go to a local restaurant for lunch. The food is delicious. I have Chinese kale and pork belly and Shane has array of deliciousness too!

We want to visit an old temple and just around the corner is WAT JEDYOD built in 1844

I do love all the lanterns…

We continue walking along the main road and pass the Clock tower – which looks much better at nighttime.

A stop for a wee beverage before heading back to the house for a rest and freshen up before dinner. Dinner is a host of more Thai dishes – I chose dumplings in chilli oil this time and then a cider at SmoBeer before calling it a night.

Tomorrow we leave for the jungle…